This morning, everything looked rather grey. There were plenty of raindrops at the windows of the breakfast room at the top of the Cortona Hotel Italia. And the beautiful scenery looked all hazy.
Well, there is nothing to it but for the bikes (and the humans who ride them) to get under way. After the (at least by Southern standards) luxurious breakfast, we started out towards Arezzo.
We went a little astray – of course, the reason was because we were looking for a shortcut. If you are doing this kind of bike tour, you have to include a little “trial and error”.
In between, we had sunshine, then cloudy skies, then some rain. But at least the temperatures were between 16 and 22 degrees Celsius. What more could you want?
From Arezzo, we set course towards Firenze. We are riding on a high road, always staying east of a lovely valley. We “sail” through the villages (I admit that the term is not quite adequate if you go by bike): Castiglion Fibuchi, San Guistino, Loro, Castelfranco, Pian de Sco. At long last, we reach Reggello with its 400 metres above sea level. The highest altitude of the day is reached. Now (almost) all we have to do is go down the hill to Leccio.
We decide not to ride into Firenze. After all, we know that the last 20 kilometres before Firenze – as well as the first 20 kilometres out of Firenze – are an atrocity for bikers. Even the guide book recommends entering Firenze by train (with the bike in the luggage compartment).
Consequently, we want to spend the night at Pontessieva and continue tomorrow morning directly on the Apennine Passes towards Bologna. Incidentally, we manage to cross the 100 kilometres mark shortly before Pontessieva. According to the guide book, there are five hotels in this town. So why can we find none? Well, there is only one way out… asking someone.
Asking anybody a question in Italy means you are instantly surrounded by helpful people. They all agree that the only hotel good enough for us in Pontessieva is the TOSCANI DA SEMPRE.
we have to do, they say, is ride through two portals, and then we will see it on the right. No sooner said than done: and here it is, the TOSCANI DA SEMPRE.
And let me say this up front: we were not disappointed. The rooms are beautiful and very quiet – and the cuisine is just phantastic. As an aperitif, we eat scalloped goat cheese and thin slices of the local bacon. Then Tagliatelle with truffles, a little lamb and beef…
It is all like a dream, not to mention the wine. I ordered the obligatory Grappa to be brought to my room. While typing this text, I pour the next… (it even rhymes).
But knowing that we will probably have to cover 2,000 metres of altitude, I wish you a good night!
RMD
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