To be sure, we were a little sceptical as we got up this morning in the Loiane Hotel Pineta. The stunning view from the window of our room fascinated us. After all, we had had no opportunity to enjoy it last night, since we had arrived in darkness. Yet, it did not yet look like there was going to be too much sun, either.
Well – to sum it up in a few short words – the day turned out just wonderful. We rode 128 kilometres and all went like a dream. From breakfast to dinner.
But let me stick to the sequence of events.
The fact that we managed a total of 128 kilometres was partly due to us starting at an altitude of 700 above sea level. It means you have a descent all the way to Bologna – with the exception of the occasional ascent – which you can really enjoy.
And, of course, for a fan of the Augsburg soccer club, Bologna is a very special city. As late as 1960, I had cheered for “Helle” (he was also called “shirt”, because he was so thin). In particular, I well remember a match between BCA and Eintracht Frankfurt.
He (Helmut Haller) was the pride of the city and the hope of the BCA (Ballspielclub Augsburg), which was a club with a true soccer history. Today, the name BCA only survived as in BCA Oberhausen, and Helmut Haller will be 71 years old this July.
In those days, he was one of the first legionaries to transfer to Bologna. On the one hand, this filled the pockets of the BCA with plenty of money. In the long run, however, it also ruined the club until, finally in the late 1960ies, they merged with the much-loved and much-hated Swabians of the TSV to become the FCA. We all know that this club is currently into an intermediate state of upturn, but the emphasis lies on “intermediate”. (Let us look closely how they will fare in the second national league this coming season).
And now I am sitting on the Piazza Galvini in front of the ZARANINI, enjoy my “Capucc” and nibble at the most expensive raisin wheels of my life at 3.00 Euros.
They are half as big as in Munich, but twice as delicious. And let me tell you, I am behaving rather economically: Barbara is eating a Bingne Crema which cost 3.50 Euros. We both decide to have a second helping, because it tasted so delicious. And since the Cappuccino was only 3 Euros (there were times when I paid more than that in Munich), the total bill at the end (place setting included) is 21 Euros. At least, it is a lot less expensive than what you would have paid at one of the “sacred places” in Rome.
Yet we had to be careful not to linger too long. Because Ostiglia on the river Po became more and more obviously our goal. After the quick descent from Bologna, it seemed realistic. Incidentally, we had been quite lucky there, because, due to an olds-mobile race, the pass descent would have been closed on the next two days. We had been unaware of this. Consequently, we had already been wondering if the straw bales that had been strategically positioned at the most dangerous places had been there to avoid bike accidents.
So we hurried towards Cento, where we had a beer, a pizza – and where we viewed a beautiful town castle. In Finale Emilia, we indulged in a portion of exquisite ice cream. We were rather hot, but there was not really an alternative to starting the long stretch towards the river Po heading for Sérmide.
Well, it turned out a stretch with hardships until we reached Sérmide. We were hot and at least my legs started reminding me that they had covered 2,000 metres of altitude over the last few days. Consequently, the bicycle moved slower and the human riding it was not quite as happy throughout the entire stretch as the wonderfully peaceful and vast landscape would have deserved.
From Sérmide we went on the cyclist’s path along the dam towards Carbonare. Another 9 kilometres saw us at the rather long and not very trust-inspiring bridge over the river Po to Ostiglia.
We took heart and crossed the bridge on a narrow footpath (which was separated from the not very broad street). Now we had to go a few more metres, and finally we were there: we did 128 kilometres today. The total count on this bike tour is now 399 kilometres after four days.
In Ostiglia, a friendly pedestrian talks to us. Of course, the first thing we do is ask him for a hotel. This is how we end up at the CIOÉ. Even though it is only two-star, all is well here.
Regardless of the long day, we arrive at the hotel at 7 p.m., so we take a shower and then stroll through the city. Barbara even finds something she likes when shopping, which is quite an exception to the rule with her. She buys herself a pair of shoes with hearts on them, which I find particularly sweet.
And then there is another one of those unforgettably delicious and noisy Italian dinners.
What a day!
RMD
(Translated by EG)
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